Look south towards Parkgate and the marsh seems to go on for ever. From here it is a good two hours’ walk to the head of the estuary at Burton. To the north, beyond the marsh, are the vast mudflats of the open estuary with Hilbre Island beyond floating serenely in the distance. Now is the time to have a first look through your telescope to reveal the thousands of Shelducks, Oystercatchers, Knots and Dunlins all busy looking for food in the mud. You may be lucky and see a massed flight flashing white and grey in the sun, the close-packed birds first splitting then reuniting as they try to escape the attentions of a Peregrine Falcon.

For me, the magic of Heswall is the sheer number of birds present whatever the state of the tide. A gutter (tidal creek) flows past the shore from Caldy to the north almost as far as Parkgate to the south; never more than one hundred yards from the beach and shore path, it comes as close as fifty yards as it passes by Heswall. This gutter acts like a magnet to the birds bringing them into close view of anyone on the beach, be they hardened twitcher, weekend birdwatcher or casual visitor.

Good as it is at any state of the tide, like anywhere else some times are better than others. My ideal day would start at dawn three hours before a spring high tide. If it is a cloudless day without any wind, so much the better! Start walking along the shore towards Thurstaston; gradually the muddy path turns into a pleasant sandy beach. Shortly you will be greeted with the glorious sight of the Curlew morning flight. Hundreds of these birds fly inland at first light to feed in the surrounding fields, calling as they pass overhead. Heswall is a major haunt of this lovely bird with up to 5000 present in winter; a good many of these feed in the coastal fields during the day.

Walk on past the end of the marsh and the whole panorama of the mudflats opens up before you. Birds will already be on the move with the tide but a good proportion of the mud will still be exposed up to two and a half hours before high water. Here is a favourite haunt of Black-tailed Godwit; a flock of a thousand or so are frequently seen on the mud at this point a few yards from the beach. A look in the gutter should reveal the tide rushing in. It will soon cover the mud with almost frightening speed. Now a true wildlife spectacular unfolds as the birds are funnelled towards you by the rising water. If the sea is calm the Shelducks will form one vast swimming flock, their white plumage glinting in the sun; late on in the winter they are often joined by Scaup. Oystercatchers fly overhead on their way to join the Curlews inland, noisily piping all the way. As the mud is covered, the smaller Knots and Dunlins fly off in vast flocks to their favourite high tide roosts at Denhall near the head of the estuary, or in the other direction to West Kirby. The Redshanks, meanwhile, huddle in large groups either side of the gutter. They will only be driven off to find higher ground further up the estuary when the sea starts creeping over the marsh. As high tide approaches walk back past the boats and before heading back to the car park have one last look across Heswall gutter; this is a particularly good time to see duck driven out of the narrow inlets and channels by the rising tide.

Now for some facts and figures: Heswall has the largest Redshank roost in the country; the largest count this winter was 6600. According to WeBS counts, the Dee Estuary has the second highest number of Shelducks; the record count for the estuary was 10,400 in October 1997 with a spectacular 9400 off Heswall. Dunlin, Knot and also Oystercatchers frequent the mudflats in their thousands, whilst Wigeon and Pintail tend to stay out on the far side of the marsh, but may be observed through a decent telescope. Rarities seen in the past year or so include Spoonbill, Little Egret, Ruddy Shelduck, Curlew Sandpiper, Greenshank and Shore Lark. Bird numbers like this are bound to attract Peregrine Falcons, and at least one appears to have taken up permanent residence on the marsh; when not hunting it can usually be seen perching on its favourite post off Sheldrakes Restaurant, waiting for its next meal! Four Hen Harriers have been present on the estuary last winter and one or two of these are regular visitors to Heswall marsh, whereas Short-eared Owls are rarer, only occasionally seen hunting rodents during high tide.

There is excellent access to the shore at Heswall with free car parks at the end of both Banks and Riverbank Roads, reached by turning off the A540 in Heswall town centre and going through lower Heswall village to the shore beyond. A bus service runs between Heswall centre and the shore at Banks Road car park. In addition, the shore can easily be reached by walking from the Wirral Country Park at Thurstaston, half a mile to the north. The best time to visit is between September and March. To keep up with the latest sightings and bird news from Heswall and throughout the Dee Estuary try the Birdwatching Guide to the Dee Estuary on the Internet at http://www.deeestuary.freeserve.co.uk.